Archives de l’auteur : clamy

The operators: specialists or generalists (1st July 2008)

The operators: specialists or generalists (1st July 2008)

|{{Operators}}|{{Number of centres}}|{{Selling area in sqm}}|
|McArthurGlen|17|367.100|
|Realm|12|167.550|
|Neinver|10|139.000|
|Value Retail|9|125.600|
|Freeport|3|113.200|
|Concepts & distribution|8|103.300|

On the 1st July 2008, these 6 operators shared :
-* 37% of the existing centres in Europe
-* 47,5% of the european sales area

Market and trends: price+ brands + leisure activities

{Factory stores capture 2.3 % of the French clothing and shoe market and represent a little more than 1% of the turnover achieved by the retail sector. This distribution channel therefore remains marginal, even if we can consider that it has found its customer base.}



{{Distribution among men, women and socioprofessional categories}}
_ Originally confined to seconds and ends of series, the array of products offered in factory stores has widened and the ranges have greatly increased, attracting a much wider palette of consumers. People with average purchasing power have been joined by those with high purchasing power who, up until recently, were, first and foremost, customers of town centre stores. In Troyes, the average purchase basket is 208 €.

{{The fashion effect}}
_ The desire to consume in these centres is maintained by fashion and the feeling that the concept is rare. Fashion awareness is more noticeable on the women’s market than on the men’s market. Today a woman of 60 years wishes to dress fashionably, In just two years some products can be considered to be out of fashion and, whatever the reduction, will not find a purchaser.

{{Greater volume}}
_ Consumers tend to purchase less expensive clothing. The opening of a new retail outlet generates a necessary reduction in sales by other retail outlets. Consumers demand clear rules guaranteeing in the brand centres the presence of products with real information.

{{Shops and leisure activities}}
_ For many, the future of factory stores is based on an alliance between stores and leisure activities. Consumers increasingly wish to enjoy themselves when they make their purchases one to three times a year. This is why brand centres are appearing near large leisure centres or offer, themselves, fun, sports or cultural activities.

{{The brand and the price}}
_ Consumers are seeking an attractive brand at a competitive price. Operators must offer a balanced selection of brands of world renown, brands linked to a fashion phenomenon and more or less prestigious brands that generate visits…

{{Risks and opportunities}}
_ The questions prompted by the installation of a factory store are linked to a number of issues: territorial planning, urbanism, consumers’ rights and the right to competition. Factory stores today pose the same problems as hypermarkets in the past: major growth over twenty years, negative impact on traditional retailers and town centres. The majority of the projects launched in France are also perceived as challenges in the area of local development and territorial stability: a factor in territorial planning, attractiveness, economic development, job creation and trade tax, or a danger for local traditional retailers.

{{Rare or commonplace}}
_ Should we tighten regulations on the installation and extension of brand centres to prevent them becoming commonplace, thus weakening the concept? The existence of too many factory stores could indeed generate their decline and that of brands. By having recourse to them to sell off excess stock, isn’t there the risk that industrialists will destabilise other forms of distribution?

{{Specificity or generalisation}}
_ Can articles other than clothing and household equipment be concerned by this type of distribution?
_ Must projects for such installations be limited to regions that can justify a strong industrial tradition (Roubaix, Troyes, Romans, Cholet, etc.), as certain local elected representatives demand? With, as a result, a ban on any installation in areas that do not have the right due to economic, geographic and historical reasons, although they have a high tourist potential, for instance southern and south-western France?

{{Town centre or outskirts}}
_ At present town centres are no longer as attractive as in the past. In France clothing consumption is marking a downward trend, which means that new factory stores could lead to a transfer of customers from the town centres to these new structures. The challenge consists in strengthening town centres’ power to attract in order to direct the flow of commercial tourists in their direction.
_ In Troyes, we were able to see the negative and positive effects.
_ In personal equipment, the impact on traditional retailers (in particular on retailers in Troyes town centre) has been spectacular. A real shock wave followed the creation of brand centres on the outskirts. This was expressed in a devitalisation of independent retailers, weakened at the same time (as in all French town centres) by the sudden upsurge in organised retailing (franchise outlets, branches, etc.).
The stores that closed down have been replaced by others and the greater number of service providers in the town centre’s did not prevent banners such as H&M from setting up there. Without factory stores, the town of Troyes would not have welcomed close to 2 million visitors in 15 years in its town centre. This commercial tourism has been joined by cultural tourism due to the town’s historical attractions.

{{History or geography}}
_ The reasons for the geographic localisation of a new centre go far beyond the existence of industrial roots and a textile past: motorway links, density of tourist flows (Marne-la-Vallée), population (Paris region), local purchasing power and the proximity of a foreign market are criteria to be taken into account. It goes without saying that territories are competing today as future locations for brand centres.

{{Stocks or relocations}}
_ The selling of excess stocks tops the list of distributors’ and brand managers’ concerns. These excess stocks represent 2 or 3% of the total volume of the market and between 0.7 and 10% of the volume of the products diffused according to the brands and banners.
_ Three possibilities are offered to a firm that wishes to get rid of its excess stock: destruction of the products, sale to discount stores or sale in factory stores. Factory stores offer the firm the advantage of controlling the distribution and, therefore, protecting the brand and the distribution network.

-* Brand stores are raking it in!
-* Brand centres: What performance for what market?
-* Brand centres in France: How are they evolving?
-* Brand centres: « Risks and consequences of their development?» (…)

If you want more information in french [click here->http://www.magdus.fr/Marche-et-tendances-prix-marques]}}}

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{{{If you want contact us:}}}[->accueil@magdus.com]

Trends and market in Europe

{{{FOC’ sector in Europe}}}

{{The operators: specialists or generalists (1st July 2008)}}

|{{Operators}}|{{Number of centres}}|{{Selling area in sqm}}|
|McArthurGlen|17|367.100|
|Realm|12|167.550|
|Neinver|10|139.000|
|Value Retail|9|125.600|
|Freeport|3|113.200|
|Concepts & distribution|8|103.300|

On the 1st July 2008, these 6 operators shared :
-* 37% of the existing centres in Europe
-* 47,5% of the european sales area

{{{More information about FOC’ sector in Europe}}}
_
[{{Economic surveys}}->http://www.magdus.fr/Fonctionnement-des-centres-de]
_ {Source : European Factory Outlet Centres Observatory}

-*[{{All the studies…}}->http://www.magdus.fr/All-the-studies,1495]

-*{{Study: Which factory outlet centre? The UK consumer’s selection criteria}}

{{Author}} : Georgina Whyatt, Business School, Oxford Brookes University.

{{ Abstract :}} Factory outlet centres are the fastest growing retail format in Europe. This is at a time when many ‘traditional’ shopping centres are suffering from consumer caution and have responded by differentiating their offer. Factory outlet centres are part of this response. There has, however, been little academic research that focuses on this new style of shopping centre. This paper examines what is important to the UK factory outlet centre shopper, and ranks a range of choice criteria to better understand why this consumer visits one such centre in preference to another. Implications for retailers and directions for future research are provided.
_
_ {(r 2007 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)}
_
-* Read the full version in PDF format

{{{Share of household consumption expenditure on clothing and footwear in 2003}}}

|{{Country}}|{{Share (%)}|
|{{ Greece }}|{{ 10,1}|
|{{ Italy }}|{{ 9,0}|
|{{ Latvia* }}|{{ 8,4}|
|{{ Portugal* }}|{{ 7,1}|
|{{ Cyprus }}|{{ 6,9}|
|{{ Austria }}|{{ 6,9}|
|{{ Slovenia }}|{{ 6,3}|
|{{ Estonia }}|{{ 6,1}|
|{{ Malta* }}|{{ 6,1}|
|{{ United Kingdom }}|{{ 6,0}|
|{{ Spain}}|{{ 5,9}}|
|{{ Lituania }}|{{5,9}}|
|{{ Germany }}|{{5,5}}|
|{{ Netherlands }}|{{5,5}}|
|{{ Belgium }}|{{5,4}}|
|{{ Irland }}|{{5,4}}|
|{{ Sweden }|{{5,2}}|
|{{ Czech Republic }}|{{5,1}}|
|{{ Denmark }}|{{5}}|
|{{ Finland }}|{{4,7}}|
|{{France}}|{{4,5}}|
|{{Luxembourg}}|{{4,5}}|
|{{ Poland }}|{{4,4}}|
|{{ Hungary }}|{{4,2}}|
|{{ Slovakia }}|{{3,7}}|

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{{ Contact}} : [->accueil@magdus.com]

Concept in Europe and in France

The  »Factory Outlet Centers » concept was imported from the United States where there are more than 340.
After a first wave of penetrations, concerning more particularly France during the 1980s, the concept spread to continental Europe from 1993 onwards.
Early in the 1990s, Clarks, the shoe manufacturer based in Great Britain, seeking both a use for buildings adjoining the factory and a solution to its excess stock problems, opened its first factory store and sold its excess merchandise at reduced prices. Seeing the success of this new store at the factory exit, he decided to increase the commercial offer by adding an entire “village” of stores of the same type.
Clarks then drew inspiration from the American concept, creating the first  »Factory Outlet Center »,  »Clarks Village » in Street (Somerset) in 1993.It was on that date that “ Marques Avenue”, France’s first new generation factory store centre, opened in Troyes.

{{More information about the sector:}}
-*Innovative centres and projects (2007)

{{{Evolution of the concept in Europe : from Factory Outlet Centres to outlet villages (2009)}}}

{{[Download the figure : Evolution of the concept in Europe}}->http://www.magdus.fr/pdf/concept_evolution_in_europe.pdf]

Factory Outlet Centres consisted only in selling unsold articles, but the commercial concept has evolved since the mid-1990s. The progressive orientation of the concept towards “fun shopping” has considerably strengthened the tourist dimension of Factory Outlet Centres. Four generations of centres can be distinguished (cf. figure). This typology, which brings to light the qualitative evolution of the concept, is based on four criteria: the marketing strategy of the centres, their architecture, their location as well as their customer base. All European countries did not experience these four generations of centres – for example, only France has actually experienced the first generation.

{{More information only in french:}}
-*Evolution du concept en Europe (2004)
-*Centres de marques : les nouvelles approches du concept en Europe (2004)

Whilst the concept offers variants in its general aspect (mixed distribution/culture/leisure centres, distribution centres open to several sectors of activity, centres specifically reserved for personal equipment, etc.), there is a common denominator among these different formulas: the brands. But for a centre to function it is not a question of attracting just any brand type. There is, in fact, a real brand typology that must be taken into account in reasoning when planning a centre (from the international brand to the young brand of the moment). The brands fulfil different “functions”: some strengthen a centre’s renown, others tend more to generate visits or make the centre part of a hot trend.

In France, whilst a few industrialists still refuse to see their brands distributed in these specialised centres, there are many who sell their brands through them. This sales method is therefore becoming a real link in the distribution chain.
The quality of the commercial offer makes the concept particularly attractive in the eyes of consumers. The latter do not hesitate to travel considerable distances to purchase in these stores, their motivation stemming from the possibility of purchasing brand products at prices announced as 30 to 50% lower than in traditional distribution channels.
The offer mainly concerns articles of clothing (ready-to-wear, underclothes, lingerie, shoes, accessories) as well as household articles (decoration, household linen, tableware).

{{More information only in french,}} [click here->http://www.magdus.fr/Une-forme-de-distribution-atypique]
-* Main chronological milestones;
-* History of factory stores;
-* Parallel between the development of Aube groups and national centres;
-* In Troyes: «From hosiery to factory stores» (…)

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_ Contact : [->accueil@magdus.com]

1. Les lauréats 2005



{{{« Meilleure traduction du concept »}}}

-* {{McArthurGlen Castel Romano
_ Rome – Italie
_ McArthurGlen}}

























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{{{« Meilleure dynamique de marque »}}}

-* {{Nike}}



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{{{« Meilleure action de promotion »}}}

-* {{Opération Fun Shopping Bus
_ (Marques Avenue, France)}}

Workshop 1 – Consumer developments in Europe – how to adapt and anticipate

{{Workshop facilitator}}
{{Laurent Locurcio }}
{Agence Info}


{{Speakers}}
{{Pascal Roussarie}}
Director of the Cetelem Observatory
{{Valérie Voisembert}}
European Leasing Executive
{Freeport}




{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ The hallmark of the European consumer is a strong desire to consume. If he or she considers that his/her purchase presents no added value, then he or she will easily resort to hard discount. If the purchase has an added value, he or she will spend more time selecting the product and thus the method of distribution. Distribution methods and consumer expectations are identical in all European capitals. There are greater differences in distribution methods between Paris and the Périgord than between Paris and Prague. It is of particular note that on-line purchasing is undergoing sharp growth, especially when a product brand is identified.



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ New European members have still not understood the concept of the factory outlet. The discount race is not a general phenomenon in Europe (a Czech prefers to buy a product from the West than a cheap product), but it is particularly pronounced in France. From this point of view, the factory outlet corresponds to consumer expectations. In 2006, promotions and sales accounted for 30% of overall sales in France.



{{Laurent LOCURCIO}}
_ Will new consumers emerge in Europe?



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ In all European countries, except for Russia, the over-sixties’ market share is increasing. Distributors will have to create spaces to attract a clientele that is older, more exacting and more aware.



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ In Lisbon, we have developed a Freeport centre, where people spend more time because of the leisure facilities offered there. We are also expanding our services (Internet, bilingual sales staff in centres on national borders, etc.) and we are careful about the quality of architecture in our brand shopping centres. Offering low prices reassures the consumer. Some of the companies who rent space from us help to ensure customer loyalty by issuing customer loyalty cards.



{{Laurent LOCURCIO}}
_ What do you think about the new consumers in Central Europe?



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ In two years, consumers in Eastern Europe will have the same purchasing power as those in Western Europe. By 2010, Hungarians will even earn more than the Portuguese. In these countries, the notion of consumerism clearly predominates over the idea of saving. So this presents a growth opportunity for brand names. Paradoxically, consumers are more demanding in Central Europe, where the most attractive shopping centres and the latest distribution concepts are to be found.



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ In Eastern Europe, consumers are more attached to brands, which play a social function, than to quality. International brands are especially appreciated.



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ With all the discounts that exist, consumers are no longer prepared to pay the street price for a product. Let us not forget to make the consumer aware of a fair price and not merely the lowest price, particularly in certain areas such as the furniture or the automotive sectors.



{{ {Discussion with the floor} }}

{{Patrick DEJEAN}}
_ How do you define a product’s « added value »?



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ The consumer wants to arbitrate with respect to his purchasing. For example, food-shopping is considered to be « chore », that can be carried out in a hard-discount store. However, the consumer is prepared to spend time and money on an organic product or a good wine. Castorama allows the consumer to choose between its discount Brico stores, on the one hand, where there are no sales staff and the prices are very low, and its Castorama stores which are full of high-quality products.
A sales advisor must provide added-value in terms of the information provided face-to-face, as opposed to information that can be obtained on the Internet – advice, reassurance, loyalty (a satisfied customer is the best ambassador for the product and the distribution concept). In order to compete with the Internet, sales staff must establish a relation with the customer and exploit the ‘dream factor’ that stimulates people to buy clothing and, particularly, branded clothing.



{{Jean-Pierre LEHMANN}} (President of the National Town-centre Federation)
_ The Freeport brand centres commit to selling at prices that are 30 % lower, but lower in relation to what price?



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ The reference price is the previous year’s consumer price in the case of products from the previous year, or the previous season in the case of the previous season’s products. Factory shops offer « excess-stock » articles, that is, unsold articles from the current or previous seasons. In fact, some brands knowingly produce more for these specific distribution channels. In our centres, we have a dual labelling system, to inform the customer of the two prices.



{{Frédéric WILLEMS}} (National Clothing Federation Legal Expert)
_ There is unfair competition between factory outlet centres and traditional shops. French legislation requires that, for shops, the reference price indicated in dual labelling systems is the lowest price proposed by the shop during the previous thirty days, whereas factory outlets have a reference price that is based on the previous year.



{{Bernard GONTIER}} (First Vice-President of the Saumur Chamber of Commerce and industry – CCI)
_ At the outset, the only added value provided by luxury brand outlets was the 30% discount, but now a 30% discount is no longer enough, as Freeport is developing leisure facilities to retain customers. What will become of brand outlets that do not have the space to develop attractions?



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ The success of brand centres is due to the range of brands, the quality of the goods and the amount of discount. Attractions are a complement.



{{Jean-Paul LEROY}} (Fashion Daily News Editor-in-Chief)
_ How do you ensure customer loyalty in brand outlets?



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ We try to step up patronage (events, Internet). Brand centres sometimes have other uses, like in Sweden, where the centre plays the role of a local shopping centre. The average number of times a person visits our centres is six per year.



{{From the floor}}
_ Is the brand centre offering similar to that in hypermarkets?



{{Laurent LOCURCIO}}
_ No, because brand centres offer all the luxury brands in a single location. However, this « luxury offering » will not necessarily be enough to enable them to endure.



{{From the floor}}
_ French legislation prohibits dual labelling outside the sales period. How will Freeport display its prices when it opens sites in France?



{{Valérie VOISEMBERT}}
_ We will comply with the law, even though some brand centres in France do practice dual labelling.



{{Pascal ROUSSARIE}}
_ There is room for all distribution methods. Dynamic sectors are those that have a dynamic method of distribution. For example, the household sports budget is constantly increasing, thanks to brands such as Nike and Adidas and distribution methods used by Décathlon and Citadium in Paris.


Les réformes annoncées de l’urbanisme commercial

{{{La mort annoncée de l’urbanisme commercial}}}

{Par Laetitia Marchand et Michel Meyer
_ Association d’avocats BMS’- Paris [->www.bms-avocats.com]
_ Décembre 2007}
_

– {{1- La Commission Européenne comme élément déclencheur}}
_
_ Dans un contexte européen de liberté d’établissement toujours plus affirmée, le droit français de l’urbanisme commercial est profondément remis en cause. Suite à la mise en demeure et l’avis motivé adressés par la Commission européenne1, une réforme de la législation française s’avère indispensable.
_ La Commission remet en cause plusieurs aspects de la procédure d’autorisation d’exploitation commerciale qui, en autorisant des projets en vertu de critères économiques et concurrentiels, méconnaîtrait le principe de liberté d’établissement et de prestation de services et serait, en outre, devenus incompatibles avec la législation communautaire2. Enfin, la critique relève également le caractère partial de la composition des organes délivrant les autorisations d’exploitation3 dans la mesure où participent, dans la prise de décision, des représentants des opérateurs économiques existant.
_
_ La deuxième étape de la procédure en manquement prévue par l’article 226 TCE a donc été franchie. La France disposait alors d’un délai de deux mois pour répondre, au risque que la Commission dépose un recours à son encontre. C’est ce qu’elle a fait par une lettre en date du 20 février 2007, dans laquelle l’engagement de se mettre en conformité avec les recommandations européennes a été pris.
_
– {{2- Le rapport DUTREIL : premier ébranlement de l’édifice français}}
_
_ C’est dans ce contexte que le Gouvernement, contraint à une réforme d’ampleur de la législation, a, dans un premier temps, chargé la Commission de modernisation de l’équipement commercial, présidée par Renaud DUTREIL, de formuler des propositions de modification des textes actuellement applicables4, dont l’esprit initial était de rééquilibrer les différentes formes de commerce et d’éviter que les petites entreprises ne soient pénalisées par rapport aux grandes surfaces.
_
_ Le rapport rendu par la Commission5 présente, en substance, des propositions visant à maintenir la législation spécifique à l’équipement commercial mais sur la base de critères rénovés, à insérer la législation de l’urbanisme commercial dans celle de l’urbanisme général, de donner plus de contenu aux schémas de développement commercial, et de leur donner davantage de force juridique.
_
– {{3- Le Conseil de la concurrence refuse les circonstances atténuantes}}
_
_ Ces propositions ont fait l’objet d’un avis du Conseil de la concurrence6, saisi à cet effet par le Gouvernement, qui conclut, dans un premier temps, à l’échec partiel de la législation actuelle qui aurait permis le renforcement des distorsions de concurrence en favorisant les acteurs en place et considère que les réflexions de la Commission de modernisation de l’équipement commercial ne font qu’aménager un régime qu’il juge devoir être réformé beaucoup plus profondément compte tenu d’un « bilan concurrentiel négatif ».
_
_ Le Conseil se prévaut des exemples européens et préconise d’une part d’abandonner le système actuel qui soumet à une autorisation de nature économique les projets d’ouverture ou d’extension des surfaces commerciales et, d’autre part, d’apprécier la conformité des projets au regard d’objectifs urbanistiques et d’aménagement du territoire, pouvant être traités lors de l’instruction du permis de construire. La suppression d’une telle autorisation permettrait à elle seule d’animer à nouveau la concurrence et de simplifier les procédures administratives, jugées trop lourdes.
_
_ Ainsi, plutôt que deux décisions, l’autorisation d’exploitation commerciale et le permis de construire, qui, chacune peut faire l’objet d’un recours selon des procédures et des délais différents, il ne subsisterait qu’une seule autorisation.
_
_ A cet effet, le Conseil propose de consacrer une section dans les schéma de cohérence territorial (SCOT) dédiée aux équipements commerciaux7, dont les prescriptions s’imposeront lors de l’examen du permis de construire, sans que soit rendue nécessaire l’instauration d’une procédure d’autorisation spécifique pour les surfaces commerciales lors de l’instruction du permis.
_
_ En outre, le Conseil avance des propositions pour lutter contre les situations anticoncurrentielles. A cet égard, en vue d’éviter la constitution de positions dominantes locales, il propose d’abaisser les seuils de contrôle de concentration. Il préconise également une extension de son pouvoir de remise en cause des positions dominantes acquises par des injonctions de cession d’activités.
_
– {{4- Le pré rapport ATTALI : l’abolition vécue comme une libéralisation}}
_
_ Hasard du calendrier, au même moment où le conseil de la concurrence rendait son avis, le 15 octobre 2007, était publié le pré rapport de la Commission pour la Libération de la Croissance Française, présidée par Jacques ATTALI.
_
_ Axé sur le pouvoir d’achat, le rapport consacre une partie de ses propositions à un objectif qui s’inscrit dans le droit fil des propositions du Conseil de la Concurrence, en préconisant l’abrogation des lois Royer et Raffarin par la mise en place de dispositifs de contrôle locaux afin de lutter contre les situations de monopole.
_
_ La réforme présentée est très dense dès lors qu’elle implique une nouvelle modification du Code de l’urbanisme et de la procédure de permis de construire. Au surplus, il s’agit d’un bouleversement radical de l’état d’esprit et des comportements de tous les acteurs. Ceux qui faisaient de l’urbanisme vont devoir faire de la police de la concurrence.
_
– {{5- Conclusion provisoire}}
_
_ Le rapport définitif est prévu pour la mi-janvier 2008 mais on ignore encore le calendrier législatif qui devrait entériner ou non ces propositions. Il est probable que dans le climat actuel, cela aille assez vite.
_
_ En l’état actuel des choses, il serait bien possible qu’une nouvelle ère s’ouvre avec l’urbanisme omniprésent. Il irriguerait et fédèrerait de nombreuses politiques publiques, comme le logement, l’aménagement du territoire, les déplacements urbains…

LA CONFIRMATION DE LA MORT ANNONCEE DE L’URBANISME COMMERCIAL PAR LE RAPPORT ATTALI (COMPLEMENT DE JANVIER 2008)
Le rapport tant attendu de la Commission présidée par Jacques ATTALI pour la libération de la croissance française vient d’être rendu public ce jeudi 24 janvier.
_
_ Compilant près de 300 décisions impliquant tous les acteurs de la société, le document confirme très largement les orientations du pré- rapport établi en décembre 2007.
_
_ La Commission prescrit sans surprise d’abroger les lois Royer- Raffarin, lois dont l’impact négatif est reconnu tant au niveau du renforcement des concentrations de la plupart des activités de distribution qu’en termes de création d’obstacles sur le marché du commerce de détail .
_
_ Ainsi le groupe de travail, conformément à l’avis du Conseil de la concurrence , recommande encore d’assouplir les règles d’implantation commerciale (également applicables à l’hôtellerie et à la distribution cinématographique), en supprimant notamment les procédures d’autorisation actuelles gérées par les commissions départementales d’équipement commercial (CDEC) et en leur substituant une autorisation unique, accordée au moment de la délivrance du permis de construire par le Maire ou le Président de l’établissement public intercommunal compétent, et ce quelque soit la taille du projet.
_
_ Cette simplification procédurale recèlerait trois vertus : une « diminution consolidée » des prix à la consommation, la création de plusieurs centaines de milliers d’emplois ainsi qu’une hausse du PIB.
_
_ A ce stade, on peut cependant regretter que le rapport demeure si laconique sur les nécessaires modalités d’application de ces principes.
_
_ En effet, alors que la réglementation des autorisations de construire vient tout juste d’être réformée (en octobre 2007), la mise en œuvre desdites propositions –qui suggère une nouvelle refonte du droit de l’urbanisme – risque de créer à nouveau une certaine confusion chez les élus locaux et les services instructeurs, qu’il conviendra de clarifier le plus promptement possible si, bien sûr, les propositions sont retenues.

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_ {1. Mise en demeure adressée par la Commission européenne aux autorités françaises le 5 juillet 2005 suivie, le 12 décembre 2006 par un avis motivé dans lequel il est demandé à la France de modifier sa réglementation concernant l’implantation des surfaces commerciales, seconde étape de la procédure précontentieuse de sanction.}
_
_ {2. En particulier les articles 14-5 et 14-6 de la directive 2006/123/CE relative aux services dans le marché intérieur.}
_
_ {3. Commissions Départementales d’Equipement Commercial (CDEC).}
_
_ {4. L’urbanisme commercial est actuellement régi par une législation spécifique résultant de la célèbre loi Royer, loi n°73-1193 du 27 décembre 1973 d’orientation du commerce et de l’artisanat, elle-même profondément modifiée en 1996 par la loi Raffarin, n°96-603 du 5 juillet 1996, relative au développement et à la promotion du commerce et de l’artisanat.}
_
_ {5. Rapport « DUTREIL » février 2007.}
_
_ {6. Conseil de la Concurrence, 11 oct. 2007, avis n° 07-A-12 concernant la législation relative à l’équipement commercial.}
_
_ {7. sur le modèle des actuels schémas de développement commercial}

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Les centres de marques français : un pré-bilan positif pour le 1er semestre 2009 et de bonnes perspectives envisagées pour le second

L’Observatoire Magdus a mené mi-mai une enquête auprès des directions de centres de magasins d’usine
et de marques en France afin de recueillir leur pré-bilan du premier semestre 2009 ainsi que leurs
perspectives d’activité au second semestre. Malgré un contexte conjoncturel défavorable, il semble
que la majorité des centres de magasins d’usine et de marques résiste bien à la crise et envisage le
second semestre positivement.

{{Lire l’intégralité de l’étude:}}

Programme 19 et 20 septembre/ Program 19 & 20th september

{{{Evolution de la distribution des marques en Europe:
_ nouveaux enjeux, nouvelles stratégies?}}}
{{{Developments in brand distribution in Europe:
_ New stakes, new strategies?
_ FOR ENGLIH VERSION, [CLICK HERE ->http://www.magdus.fr/Developments-in-brand-distribution]
}}}

|{{Avis d’experts}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{mercredi 19 septembre 10h00/10h30
_ {{{Etat des lieux européen
_ sur l’évolution de la distribution
_ des marques en Europe:
_ situation et perspectives}}}
_ |{{Alessandro Bedeschi
_

_ Henrik C.Maris
_

_ Eric Daguin
_

_ Emmanuel de Labarre
_
_
_ Sven Lung
_
_
_ Pascal Roussarie
_
_
_ Olivier Dauvers
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|

—–

|{{Conférences}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{mercredi 19 septembre 17h15/18h15}}
_ {{{Nouvelle conquête
_ pour nouveaux consommateurs}}}
_ Stratégie de conquête
_ Nouveau marketing
_ Valeur du client
_ Marques et Différenciation
_ |{{Philippe Villemus
_
_
_ {{|
|{{jeudi 20 septembre 10h15/11h15}}
_ {{{Le nouveau consommateur
_ du XXI e siècle:
_ portrait d’un individu contradictoire}}}
_ |{{Guillaume Erner
_
_
_ {{|

—–

|{{Ateliers thématiques}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{A1 – mercredi 19 septembre 10h45/11h45 }}
_ {{{Evolution du consommateur en Europe:
_ comment s’adapter et anticiper?}}}
_ Y-a-t-il un ou des consommateurs?
_ Quelles sont les grandes tendances des
_ comportements d’achat de produits d’habillement?
_ Comment vont-elles évoluer?
_ Comment les distributeurs de marques
_ peuvent-ils attirer plus de consommateurs?
_ Comment les fidéliser? Les mêmes méthodes
_ peuvent-elles s’appliquer à tous et partout?
_ les centres de marques occupent-ils une place à part ?
_ |{{
_
_ Valérie Voisembert
_

_ Pascal Roussarie
_
_
_ Laurent Locurcio
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A2 – mercredi 19 septembre 10h45/11h45}}
_ {{{Invendus textiles: peut-on les maîtriser?
_ Comment les valoriser?}}}
_ Quels sont les enjeux des invendus textiles?
_ Quelle est leur place sur le marché de l’habillement?
_ Peut-on limiter les invendus en amont ?
_ Quelles sont les meilleures solutions pour la
_ valorisation des invendus (centres de magasins
_ d’usine, internet, enseigne-bis…)?
_ Les marques doivent-elles gérer leurs
_ invendus comme leurs produits de collection?
_ Quelles solutions pour les invendus d’invendus?
_ |{{Alessandro Bedeschi
_

_ Jean-Loup Besquent
_
_
_ Dr.Sami Sboui
_
_
_ Bruno Rogowski
_
_
_ {{
{Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque}}}|
|{{A3 – mercredi 19 septembre 12h00/13h00}}
_ {{{Marketing des centres de magasins d’usine:
_ quel est le mix-gagnant?}}}
_ Quel est le pouvoir d’attractivité d’une marque
_ pour le consommateur de centres de magasins
_ d’usine? Existe-t-il un portefeuille de marques idéal?
_ Comment prendre en compte la dimension
_ shopping-tourisme dans le mix-marketing?
_ La communication est-elle la clé
_ de la différenciation avec les concurrents?
_ Quel est aujourd’hui le positionnement
_ marketing des centres de magasins d’usine?
_ Peut-il être à « géo-stratégie » variable ?
_ Comment doit-il évoluer? Pour quelles
_ perspectives de développement?
_ |{{Richard Broadhead
_
_
_ Frank Verschelle
_
_
_ Alain Salzman
_
_
_ Fabrice Schlosser
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A4 – mercredi 19 septembre 12h00/13h00}}
_ {{{Ouverture du dimanche: un enjeu européen ?}}}
_ Quels sont les besoins et attentes
_ des différents acteurs?
_ Quels sont les enjeux économiques de
_ l’ouverture du dimanche?
_ Quels en sont les enjeux sociaux?
_ Sont-ils partagés de la même façon en Europe?
_ |{{Emmanuel de Labarre
_
_
_ Marion Kahn-Guerra
_
_
_ Olivier Dauvers
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A5 – mercredi 19 septembre 14h15/15h15}}
_ {{{Stratégie de distribution des marques:
_ quelle est la place d’internet?}}}
_ Internet a-t-il changé la façon de consommer
_ les marques? Les grands sites marchands
_ qui déstockent des marques concurrencent-ils
_ les centres de magasins d’usine?
_ Peuvent-ils prendre une place encore plus grande
_ sur ce marché?
_ Pour les marques, internet est-il un outil commercial
_ complémentaire ou est-il devenu un mode
_ de distribution à part entière?
_ Déstocker sa marque sur internet permet-il d’attirer
_ une nouvelle clientèle?
_ |{{Olivier Le Floch
_

_ Sven Lung
_
_
_ Patrick Robin
_
_
_ Olivier Costil
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A6 – mercredi 19 septembre 14h15/15h15}}
_ {{{Le client de centre de magasin d’usine:
_ consommateur de marques
_ ou consommateur de prix?}}}
_ Qui sont les consommateurs de centres
_ de magasins d’usine? Que viennent-ils y chercher?
_ Existe-il encore pour le consommateur
_ un prix de «référence»?
_ Pour les centres de magasins d’usine, les prix et
_ les marques sont-ils toujours des arguments
_ suffisants pour se démarquer?
_ Quelles sont les véritables attentes des
_ consommateurs? Quel serait alors le centre
_ de magasins d’usine idéal?
_ |{{Christine Baudchon
_

_ Geoffrey Nidd
_
_
_ Marina Martorana
_
_
_ Jean-Paul Leroy
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A7 – mercredi 19 septembre 15h45/16h45}}
_ {{{Immobilier commercial en Europe:
_ la distribution des marques textile est-elle
_ toujours un secteur gagnant?}}}
_ Dans l’univers de la distribution des marques
_ de l’habillement, quelles sont les tendances
_ de l’immobilier commercial en Europe?
_ Pourquoi de plus en plus d’investisseurs
_ s’intéressent-ils au concept des centres
_ de magasins d’usine? Sur quels critères choisissent-ils
_ d’investir? Y a t il encore des perspectives
_ de développement en Europe de l’ouest?
_ Les pays de l’est sont-ils un nouvel Eldorado?
_ A quelles conditions peut-on encore
_ s’y implanter et s’y développer?
_ |{{Chris Pope
_
_

_
_ Richard Broadhead
_
_

_
_ Gaël Thomas
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A8 – mercredi 19 septembre 15h45/16h45}}
_ {{{Centres de magasins d’usine:
_ une opportunité de développement
_ pour les marques ?}}}
_ Pour les marques, en quoi une stratégie de
_ distribution multi canal peut-elle être génératrice
_ de développement? Comment la gérer?
_ Comment tirer profit des centres de magasins
_ d’usine? Pourquoi le développement
_ européen de ces centres sert-il le développement
_ des marques
_ |{{Juan-Marcos Gabas
_
_
_ Alain Salzman
_
_
_ Ulrich Nordhorn
_
_
_ Olivier Dauvers
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|

—–

|{{Table ronde}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{jeudi 20 septembre 11h45/12h30}}
_ {{{En quoi, et comment, dans 5 ans,
_ les centres de marques
_ répondront-ils aux attentes des marques,
_ des consommateurs et des investisseurs ?}}}
_ |{{Henrik C.Maris
_

_ Eric Decouvelaere
_
_
_ François Moss
_
_
_ Iestyn Roberts
_

_ Alexandre Séjourné
_

_
_ Olivier Dauvers
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|

—–

|{{Tribunes Libres}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{jeudi 20 septembre 9h35/10h15}}
_ |{{Alain Salzman, Marques Avenue
_
_
_ Eric Decouvelaere, McArthurGlen
_
_
_ Iestyn Roberts, Freeport
_

_
_ Franck Verschelle, Pantheon
_
_
|

—–

|{{Ateliers pays}}|{{Intervenants}}|
|{{A9 – mercredi 19 septembre 10h45/11h45}}
_ {{{Belgique-Hollande }}}
_
_
_
_ |{{atelier annulé
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A10 – mercredi 19 septembre 14h15/15h15}}
_ {{{Les Centres de Marques en Europe
_ faits et chiffres}}}
_
_

_ |{{Caroline Lamy
_
_
_ Bruno Rogowski
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A11 – mercredi 19 septembre 12h00/13h00}}
_ {{{Allemagne}}}
_
_

_ |{{Ulrich Nordhorn
_
_
_ Jörg Nowicki
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A12 – mercredi 19 septembre 12h00/13h00}}
_ {{{Angleterre-Irlande}}}
_
_

_ |{{François Moss
_
_
_ Graham Parker
_

_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A13 – mercredi 19 septembre 14h15/15h15}}
_ {{{Pays de l’Est}}}
_
_

_

_ |{{Eric Daguin
_
_
_ Jana Kurkova
_
_
_ Tomasz Leskiewicz
_

_
_ Fabrice Schlosser
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A14 – mercredi 19 septembre 15h45/16h45}}
_ {{{Espagne-Portugal}}}
_
_

_ |{{Manuel Saavedra
_

_
_ Philippe Schilde
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A15 – mercredi 19 septembre 10h45/11h45}}
_ {{{Italie}}}
_
_
_
_ |{{
_
_ Roberto Pacifico
_
_
_ Marina Martorana
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|
|{{A16 – mercredi 19 septembre 15h45/16h45}}
_ {{{France}}}
_
_

_ |{{Raymond Feyssaguet
_
_
_ Didier Moret
_
_
_ Alexandre Séjourné
_
_
_ Laurent Locurcio
_
_
_ {{
{[Tous les intervenants
_ du colloque->http://www.magdus.fr/Liste-des-intervenants]}}}|

—–

_ Ce programme est actualisé très régulièrement.
_ {This program will be updated very regularly. }

—–

_ Vous avez des remarques ou suggestions? Contactez nous
_ { You have remarks or suggestions? Contact us}
_ [->accueil@magdus.com]
_ Tel : 33 (0)3.25.43.70.20

—–

_ Plus d’infos sur 3ème colloque européen sur les centres de marques et magasins d’usine:
_ {More information on the 3rd European conference on factory outlet centres:}

-* [Présentation / {Presentation}->http://www.magdus.fr/Edito]

-* [Nos partenaires / {Partners}->http://www.magdus.fr/Vous-souhaitez-devenir-partenaire]

-* [Nos partenaires presse / {Partners in the press}->http://www.magdus.fr/Partenariats-presse]

-* [Les Trophées Magdus / {Magdus Awards}->http://www.magdus.fr/Les-trophees-2007]

-* [S’inscrire / {Registration }->http://www.magdus.fr/Droits-d-inscriptions]

-* [Hébergement / {Hotel accommodation }->http://www.magdus.fr/Hebergement]

-* [Informations générales / {General information}->http://www.magdus.fr/Informations-generales-General]

—–

Contact : [->accueil@magdus.com]

—–

Workshop 2 – Unsold textiles – can they be controlled? How can they be made more saleable?

{{Facilitator}}
{{Bruno Rogowski }}
{Magdus}


{{Speakers}}
{{Dr. Sami Sboui}}
Researcher (Paris XII)
Research Director
{EuroMedTextile}
{{Alessandro Bedeschi}}
General Secretary
{European Association of Fashion Retailers}
{{Jean-Loup Besquent}}
Director of Outlet Europe subsidiary
{Vecopri}



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ A distinction is made between excess stock – during the selling season – and unsold stock that remains at the end of the season. According to our studies, unsold stock varies between 33 and 50 %, and the average figure is generally high for top-of-the-range products. The retail brands have difficulty in managing this unsold stock and they endeavour to optimise the de-stocking process. It is less a problem of quantity than of uniformity of stock, because during the sales period, a varied range of products has to be offered.



{{Jean-Loup BESQUENT}}
_ We do not own the brands, and so we pay royalties on unsold goods. In a certain way, these unsold goods are a « necessary evil », a result of production quotas – it costs the brand just as much to produce 1500 tee-shirts in Asia as 2000. This is why the amount of unsold stock is tending to increase.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ Unsold goods is a major problem for the fashion retail sector and varies from country to country. Distinction should be made on how specialised retail chains and independent retailers deal with the issue of sold goods. Key factors for success chains are their perfect integration in their supply chain and their good logistics system. They also can move their stocks through distribution systems and know their consumer profile. For independent multi brand retailers, the only solution to limit stocks is to cooperate with their suppliers by enhancing the communication and sharing information on the sell out of the collections; from ordering to the final sell out. In some countries (Scandinavian countries, the Netherlands), there are good practices of cooperation between retailers and suppliers whilst in some other countries there is still a long way to go.
It is a matter of mentality, product, individual companies, and size of the companies.
Consumers tend to buy more during the sales promotions which is one of the reasons retailers have stocks.



{{Jean-Loup BESQUENT}}
_ It is important for brands to ensure upstream control of their goods sales channels in order to maintain their image. 95 % of our goods are sold in factory outlets, which is an ideal channel to provide control and profitability. The rest is sold on Internet and via discount stores. We do not take back unsold stock from retailers after the sales, apart from in exceptional cases.



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ Of all our de-stock possibilities (factory outlets, excess stock outlets, export and de-selection), export is the preferred method, because it obviates the need for cut-price selling.



{{Bruno ROGOWSKI}}
_ That being said, there are two limits for export – if the brand does not have a strong image in the country in question, it will never be able to sell the products; and if, however, the brand has a strong image, it must defend this it in that country.



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ Lesser known brands end up in the used clothing stores in Africa. Well-known brands, such as Zara are also very well known abroad.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ I don’t know Zara well enough to speak about the company. Each brand has its specific market strategy, which needs to penetrate the market whilst keeping a strong brand image. How they penetrate markets depends on several factors: on the distribution strategy, on the expansion plans, on consumer behaviour, and on how strong or well known the brand is. Stock is sold during sales promotions, unsold stock is sent to wholesalers or is destroyed.



{{Bruno ROGOWSKI}}
_ How do other sectors of industry manage unsold stock?



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ Unsold stock is a fact of life in all economic sectors (Bordeaux wine, newspapers, etc.). Walt Disney, for example, destroys lots of CD-ROMs. Airbus, on the other hand, has no problem of unsold stock, but has to cope with electronic component obsolescence. It is important to bet on the « right unsold stock ».



{{Bruno ROGOWSKI}}
_ How is the price of unsold stock set?



{{Jean-Loup BESQUENT}}
_ Consumers are in the know and understand the factory outlet mechanism and the prices of unsold stock.



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ We want to set up a dynamic price system for transport.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ Consumers are more and more complicated and have an incredible choice so they can look at quality price ratio. From a brand perspective, price is a marketing tool. Concerning the recycling of textiles and greater awareness of the environment, there is more attention given to greener products and, hopefully, in the near future, consumers will be more keen on paying for these products. A good price, from a company perspective, is when the consumer pays.



{{ {Discussions with the floor} }}

{{Pierre DESRUES}} (CCI – Chamber of Commerce, Essonne)
_ Retailers’ difficulty in selling their excess stock is increasing with the development of specific excess stock distribution channels; it even raises the issue of their survival.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ For small independent retailers, overstock is a matter of survival; therefore the cooperation between small retailers and suppliers is important. Small retailers’ main partners are the European industries, if the suppliers could agree to take back the unsold goods, retailers could lower their margins. Thus retailers would survive, be more competitive and suppliers would still have clients.



{{Alain SALZMAN}} (Président de Marques Avenue)
_ Manufacturers should allow retailers to take advantage of the brand centres to sell their excess stock. This would enable retailers to take more risk, which would, in the long run, be to the advantage of the manufacturer.



{{Pierre DESRUES}} (CCI Essonne)
_ This is incompatible with the manufacturers’ approach – they have over-stocking problems and their attitude is that attack is the best form of defence.



{{Jean-Loup BESQUENT}}
_ It is not profitable to allow retailers to get rid of their stock in a factory outlet, because costs are too high for small stocks.



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ Retailers have an interest in working with discounters, because, with the massive increase in collections, they have to release space and disburse money. De-stock management is just as important as procurement management.



{{Alessandro BEDESCHI}}
_ To be clear about the relation between factory outlets and retailers, it is understandable if a producer takes back the unsold goods of a retailer and sells those in a real factory outlet centre. The question is what is a real factory outlet centre and what have they become. Many producers create ad hoc productions for factory outlet centres, which is a distinct situation.



{{Yves MARY}} (Owner of a factory outlet centre at Cholet)
_ Do factory outlets satisfy the customer?



{{Docteur Sami SBOUI}}
_ A new consumer is emerging today, the « special offer-aholic », that is someone who is looking for a good deal. 70% of women only buy during the sales periods. Distributors should take into account this behaviour in their strategy. The discount race must not be developed to such an extent as to engender « cannibalism ».



{{Michel de SOUZA}} (President of a towns association near to Geneva)
_ We must find a modus vivendi that enables retailers as well as the major brands and distributors to be successful, without putting them into opposition.